Red wines a good choice with fall menus

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via The Patriot Ledger Dining RSS by TANIA BAZALDUA on 9/23/08


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It’s not just the color of leaves that are changing. Wine dabblers and connoisseurs are making the transition from whites to reds and pairing them with their favorite dishes and cheeses for fall.
``In the summer people want the lighter wines, like a pinot grigio, something light and refreshing very simple on the palate.  You don’t want a wine that’s going to get you hot and bothered,'' said Lisa Lemme of Gypsy Kitchen in Quincy.   ``In the fall you stay indoors, you want to stay warm. You want something a little warmer, more complex and heavier, with more body.''
  
  That doesn’t take white wines out of the picture,   said Lisa D’Adamo, owner of Tannins Wine Bar & Boutique in Elmhurst, Ill. Certain whites such as Riesling, Gewurztraminer and chardonnay can make the transition along with the reds.
  
   Because of the chemical balance of these drinks, the weight is more palpable and they are good supplements for heavier fare, she said.
  
  Heavy wines ``are very warming,'' Lemme said. ``They complement the food you want in the winter – the turnips and the squashes and the roasts, duck, leg of lamb, potatoes.''
  
Chardonnay is a red wine drinker’s white counterpart, D’Adamo said.  Although steak traditionally is eaten with red wine – such as cabernet sauvignon or shiraz – Riesling and chardonnay are the exceptions. They also pair well with Thanksgiving essentials: pork, turkey,   stuffing, pumpkins and butternut squash.

 ``The fattier the meat, the heavier the wine you want because of the tannins needed to break it down,'' said K.C. Gulbro, owner and general manager of Foxfire in Geneva, Ill.
    ``It brings the flavor out and complements it.''
With spicier  foods such as Cajun dishes or peppercorn-crusted meals, fruitier shiraz and zinfandel are perfect choices, he said.

 Depending on the fish that is  prepared, there are  wines that pair best with seafood.

 ``If you have lobster tail or crab, go with the chardonnay. It’s a little bit dryer,'' Gulbro said.    ``If you choose a fattier fish or white fish, then choose a sauvignon blanc or pinot grigio.''
He recommends a more oaky chardonnay that has been barrel-aged to accompany salmon.
   Chicken  can be tricky because it can be prepared in many different ways, he added.
   Usually pinot noirs and merlots are recommended with chicken.
   However, chicken with summer sauces usually pair best with white wines.

 ``If you drink heavy red wines, like a cabernet, you’ll overpower the flavor of the chicken,'' he said. ``Reds won’t pair well with chicken because there’s not so much acidity.''
Gulbro serves organic pork in his restaurant and always suggests his guests choose a shiraz or pinot noir.
   Lighter meats go well with those reds, or you may want to opt for an oaky chardonnay instead, he said.
``Every palate is different,'' Gulbro added. ``Some people like cabernet with their fish. Others don’t. One might say something is great paired together, but to someone else it’s not.

 ``I just make sure I always give a recommendation when offering my food,'' he said.

   Stephanie Choate contributed to this report.
  

Fall in love with these reds
Italian reds are perfect for the cool days of the fall, said Lisa Lemme, owner of Gypsy Kitchen in Quincy.
Lemme, who has been in the wine business for 20 years, says these wines are “hardy, they’re warming, they go with all the types of root veggies were going to be eating real soon.”  Specifically, she said to look for wines made with the Nebbiolo grape.
 On her list for fall wine drinking:
Italy: Chianti, Montalcino, barolos
France: Bordeaux, cotes du rhones
Argentina: Malbecs
 - Patriot Ledger staff
  
  
Suggested wine and cheese pairs
 RIESLING
 This white wine is known for its floral perfume. It can be crisp and bone-dry, full-bodied and spicy, or luscious and sweet. The flavor often has a hint of peaches, apricots, honey and apples.
Say cheese: Try white cheddar
  
 CABERNET SAUVIGNON
 This is a red wine known for its depth of flavor, aroma and ability to age. It’s full-bodied and intense, with cherry currant and sometimes herbal flavors. Cabernet sauvignon may have noticeable tannins.
Say cheese: Try bleu
  
PINOT NOIR
This is a red wine of light to medium body and delicate, smooth, rich complexity with earthy aromas. They are less tannic than a cabernet sauvignon or a merlot. Pinot noirs exude the flavor of baked cherries, plums, mushrooms, cedar, cigars and chocolate.
Say cheese: Try Le D’elice de Bourgogne
  
  
CHARDONNAY
This is a white wine that can range from clean and crisp with a hint of varietal flavors to rich and complex. oak-aged. Chardonnay balances fruit, acidity and texture.
Say cheese: Try aged gouda
  
  
SAUVIGNON BLANC
This is a white wine best known for its grassy, herbal flavor. It is also called fume blanc.
Say cheese: Try brie
  
RIOJA
This well-known red originates from the Rioja region of Spain. Classic and bold, it has bright, fresh flavors.
Say cheese: Try manchego
 
Source: Foxfire, Tannins and WineIntro.com
 

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